Things to Do in Cape Verde

About Cape Verde

You don’t smell Cape Verde before you see it—the scent of salt-crusted volcanic rock, sun-baked fish grilling over coals, and the faint, sweet perfume of hibiscus carried on the constant Atlantic wind arrives first. This is a nation built by the sea, where Portuguese fortresses crumble into the surf on Santiago Island’s Cidade Velha, the first European colonial outpost in the tropics, and the cobbled lanes of São Filipe on Fogo Island are painted in pastels against a backdrop of a still-active volcano. The soundscape is just as distinct: the mournful twang of a cavaquinho guitar from a Mindelo bar in São Vicente, the rhythmic clatter of dominoes in the Praia’s Sucupira Market, and the silence of Sal’s bone-white salt flats at Pedra de Lume, where you float effortlessly in water ten times saltier than the sea. Getting between islands can be a logistical puzzle—the ferry network is famously unreliable, and inter-island flights, while quick (40 minutes from Praia to Mindelo costs around 15,000 CVE / $150), add up fast. But that fragmentation is the point. You come for the postcard-perfect beaches of Sal and Boa Vista, yes, but you stay for the soulful, melancholic morna music in São Vicente’s bars, where a shot of grogue costs 100 CVE ($1), and for the surreal hike up Fogo’s Pico do Fogo, where the earth still steams from the 2014 eruption. Cape Verde doesn’t offer easy escapes; it offers elemental ones.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Inter-island travel is where your plans might fall apart in the best way. TACV and Binter Cabo Verde operate the domestic flights—book well ahead, especially for the popular Praia-Sal route, where a one-way ticket tends to run 8,000-12,000 CVE ($80-$120). The ferries, like the one from São Vicente to Santo Antão, are cheaper (around 1,500 CVE / $15) but notoriously subject to cancellations when the Atlantic swells pick up. On the islands, aluguers (shared minivans) are the local workhorse; flag one down, squeeze in, and pay the flat fare (usually 50-100 CVE / $0.50-$1). They won’t have a set schedule, they’ll stop for anyone, and you’ll get there eventually. Renting a car on Sal or Boa Vista is straightforward, but on Santo Antão, you’ll want a 4x4 for the mountain roads that twist like spaghetti.

Money: The Cape Verdean escudo (CVE) is pegged to the euro at a fixed rate of 110.265 CVE to €1. Euros are accepted almost everywhere, but you’ll nearly always get a worse rate than if you’d changed to escudos. ATMs (Multicaixa) in major towns like Praia and Mindelo are reliable for withdrawing local currency. Cards are accepted at larger hotels and some upscale restaurants, but cash is still king, especially for markets, aluguers, and small pensões. A good rule of thumb: if the establishment has a thatched roof or plastic chairs, have escudos ready. Tipping isn’t expected but is appreciated for good service; rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10% in a restaurant is more than enough.

Cultural Respect: Cape Verdeans are generally laid-back and welcoming, but a little effort goes a long way. Greet people with a “Bom dia” (good day) or “Ola” before launching into questions or transactions—it’s considered basic courtesy. While Portuguese is the official language, the heart language is Kriolu (Creole). Learning a few phrases—“Módi ki bu sta?” (How are you?), “Obrigadu” (Thank you)—will earn you instant smiles. Dress is casual but modest, especially when away from the beach resorts; cover up when visiting villages or churches. Music, particularly morna and funaná, isn’t just entertainment; it’s a national passion. If you’re invited to a local gathering where music is playing, showing appreciation—even just by listening intently—is a sign of respect. Don’t be the loud tourist shouting over Cesária Évora.

Food Safety: The golden rule: eat where the locals eat, especially at lunchtime. The prato do dia (plate of the day) at a simple tchuba (eatery) in Praia’s Plateau district—often a hearty stew of beans, corn, and fish or cachupa (the national slow-cooked stew)—for about 300 CVE ($3), is likely fresher and safer than a reheated tourist buffet. Seafood is generally excellent and safe; you’ll see it come off the boat in the morning. Grilled tuna or wahoo (espada) from a beachside shack in Santa Maria, Sal, is a must. Stick to bottled water, even for brushing teeth in some areas. The local grogue (sugarcane spirit) is potent; the unaged white version can be rough, but the aged varieties (envelhecido) from Santo Antão are surprisingly smooth. Avoid ice in drinks unless you’re at a reputable hotel or restaurant.

When to Visit

Cape Verde’s weather splits into two clear seasons, and your choice depends entirely on your tolerance for wind and your budget. The dry season, from November to June, is considered peak. Expect constant sun, minimal rain, and persistent trade winds that keep temperatures pleasant (24-29°C / 75-84°F). This is when flight and hotel prices are at their highest, especially around Christmas and Easter—book at least three months out. February is prime for spotting humpback whales off Boa Vista. The ‘wet’ season (July-October) is a misnomer; you’re more likely to get a hazy bruma seca (dry haze) from the Sahara than actual downpours, though short, intense showers can happen. Temperatures creep higher (27-32°C / 81-90°F) and the humidity rises, but the winds often die down, making the beach heat feel more intense. This is the value season: hotel rates on Sal and Boa Vista can drop by 30-40%, and you’ll find more availability. The major cultural events cluster here too: the energetic Gamboa Festival in Praia (May), the explosive Carnival in Mindelo (February/March), and the music-filled Baía das Gatas festival on São Vicente (August). For hikers aiming for the mist-shrouded peaks of Santo Antão, the greenest, most dramatic landscapes appear briefly after the infrequent rains, usually in September. For most first-timers, the shoulder months of April-May or October-November hit the sweet spot: reliable weather, manageable crowds, and prices that haven’t yet skyrocketed or completely bottomed out.